There was some cycle paths in and out of Satu Mare. On the way in it was older and you had warch for some sudden drops at kerb ends – if you were lucky a wee concrete ramp was added but if you didn’t pay attention you could come down with a nasty bump. On the way out there was about 3k of brand new tarmac-ed cycle path – so new they were still working on it.
The first wee place I came to today was the tiny wee village of Ady Andre – famous as where the Hungarian poet Andre Ady came from – his statue that I’d seen in Debrecen had stuck in my mind as it was unusual and I’d meant to read up about him but had failed to do so, so far.
So by chance I pass through the village he is from which has a wee museum – now by luck there is a bus load of children visiting today – and I say lucky as the museum would not have been open otherwise – one of teachers is their English teacher and she translates for me while the kids a I are shown round the wee house where he used to live – I had not realised that this area of Romania used to be part of Hungary – I’m told that it used to be quite tense between the 2 countries but much better since the European Union – I’m also told that Andre Ady wasn’t very good looking but the ladies liked him – I don’t think the school kids were told this bit of information. Tine for the kids and teachers to move on – I was glad I arrived not long after they did and must look up some of his work – I was also very grateful for the teacher who translated for me.
Now heading towards the town of Satu Mare – farm tracks linking up some of wee villages and then busy road the rest of the way.
Stopped about 7k outside Satu Mare for a bite to eat at a restaurant – not very busy, partly because I can’t tell the time and it was only about 11am – I’m blaming that I’m now in a different time zone – anyway they were serving food and that was the main thing. The lady at the table next to me indicated that she would get the waitress to come out and I was to sit down. At first l thought she might have worked there or even possibly run it – the first bit was kind of right. So armed with Google translate on my phone and my phrase book it was practice Romanian day 2 – I manage to order unu coke & unu omleta cu carnati (omlette with sausage) – I failed on the chips and got bread instead. The lady next to me finished her meal and then walked to the road end and came back a short time after and started chatting – we managed to establish where I’d come from this morning and where I was going to with the help of sign language and Google maps and I learnt a few more words which I’ve promptly forgotten except for – “sunt o prostituata” – now I didn’t need any help translating this but I obviously paused long enough as I could not think of a response (in English far less Romanian) for her to mime what she meant – she also told me she wasn’t married but had 5 children, 3 of which were grown up – and I figured out she hadn’t walked to the road end to stretch her legs but was looking for business, which was a bit quiet today. So a new phrase learnt but not sure I’ll have the opportunity to use it.
I giggled the next bit of the journey thinking about the conversation but also wondered what kind of life she had??
Next stop was to find the the tourist information office in Satu Mare – I was in 2 minds whether to do this or not – the last time I looked for the tourist information office was in Budapest and despite my best efforts never found it – research and Google maps and streets signs all took me to the open topped bus tour office and they were only interested in selling me one of their tickets. Anyway I found the right place in Satu Mare and lots of helpful information from the lassie that served me – things to look out for in the town itself and the surrounding area and also reccomended a campsite for tomorrow night – she was so enthusiastic I think she would have given me a guided tour herself if she could. With all my new information I feel I’m better prepared for the next couple of days, as long as i can conquer the hills!
Left the campsite properly on attempt no. 2. Had pumped up rear wheel but had only gone a couple of miles when it felt softer than before I’d pumped it up. Although behind gates, there was a lot of barking dogs, so I decided to go back to the campsite to fix it without a doggie audience and associated noise. Couldn’t find anything in the tyre – not sure if it’s the valve that’s the problem – inner tube had already been patched a couple of times before I left home so opted just to replace and so far all seems to be good.
Arrived in Romania today – passport stamped with no problems. Surprising amount of staff relative to the number of cars passing through. The young lads were friendly and one in particular chatted while I waited for my passport to be stamped – think he would have chatted more if the highheidyin (boss) wasn’t about. The highheidyin barely nodded when he returned my passport and I asked if it had been stamped – I don’t think talking or smiling was in his remit! I checked and double checked that passport was definitely stamped before setting off.
Shared roads some of the way on the Hungarian side but large sections of good cycle paths including the one that took me to the border crossing. On the Romanian side no cycle paths so far – when I mentioned no cycle path on Facebook I got a “sad” emoji from friend and fellow cyclist, John – cycle paths would be nice but to be fair I’d plotted route to link up with places I want to see and no expectation of cycle paths and so far roads mostly pretty quiet.
Lovely cycle path with poppies on the Hungarian side – not long later the grass and poppies was being mowed though!!
Stopped at first town I came to in Romania, one to get money and one to get something to eat. I had food on me but wanted a change from bread and cheese and also the only way I’m to learn any Romania is to interact with the locals more and as I’m here for 4 weeks I should really try and learn some of the language. By the end of lunch I’ve nailed 2 words – omleta (omlette) and multumesc (thank you) – it’s going to be a slow process!!
Been chased by one dog so far – but the kids that were with it, got it back into the garden. I like dogs but not when they are chasing and barking at me!
In terms of the road my biggest concern so far in Romania, is the concrete drains – if they are along side the road fine but not when they are across the road like this junction – don’t want to get one of my wheels caught in this!
I was expecting Romania to be poorer than the countries I’ve passed through so far but didn’t expect such a quick transition. Passed through a few wee villages where there was a big disparity between the houses – nothing huge but some big with fancy gates – at the opposite end some not much bigger than the concrete equivalent of my garden shed – no matter the size they nearly all had beautiful flowers growing outside – roses, geraniums, irises and others I can’t remember the name of.
I stayed in a hotel in Tasnad – the lady who ran it suggested I go to the beach (the thermal pools) which I did but it was a bit too busy and decided to walk into town and have a look at the churches with the silver spires that had been catching my eye from the distance instead.
Another wee bike ride with only one, nearly, empty pannier today. Went to visit The Great Forrest and the Zoo. Think “great” is an exaggeration but it is very nice for a wee wander round – Debrecen in general seems to have lots of nice green areas.
I was in 2 minds about visiting the zoo – overall really enjoyed it though and felt that most of the animals, but not all, had a decent sized area.
Pictures from the zooPictures from the forrest – Ady was a famous Hungarian Poet
Back on the bike properly tomorrow and, unless something goes wrong, will be crossing into Romania tomorrow.
Easy day yesterday. Only short ride to the Kerekestelep Campsite where I soaked in their thermal mineral spa – apparently it’s good for health and joints – whether it is or not it was nice and relaxing – it’s also meant to be good for if you drink it but I’m not putting this to the test.
Short bike ride in the afternoon to seek out an ATM and get some food – cycling with one almost empty pannier feels good!!
In process of looking for ATM spotted this interesting looking spire and went for a nosy and found this interesting shaped church.
And in process of finding church got lucky and saw 3 storks on their nests.
Sun is out and I’m going to find The Great Forrest, which should be just a few miles on the bike and just a very light pannier again.