Blonde Bird On A Bike

Getting to the start point of my America trip is going to be the hardest bit – the bit I don’t have a lot of control over.   Once the bike is unpacked and the panniers loaded I am back in charge – I can go where,  when,  and how I want (kind of).   

I knew it wasn’t going to be easy getting to Cape Blanco Lighthouse from Portland Airport – but some quick research indicated that it looked as if I could get to Bandon by a mix of train and bus,  and from there a 28 mile bike ride to the lighthouse.   I posted on one of the cycle touring forums looking for advice – I got lots of friendly replies back but not what I wanted to hear – basically put it in the too hard to do box and lots of alternative suggestions as to start points that were more easily got to from Portland Airport – I didn’t mention that I had a stubborn streak and that come hell or high water me and Bertie would be getting to Cape Blanco Lighthouse.

So a wee bit more research was needed – Bandon was abandoned – the train doesn’t go this far and the connecting bus only takes carry-on luggage – Bertie aint going to fit under my feet or on the overhead luggage rack!   So different train and bus stations were investigated and I now have a Greyhound Bus ticket from Portland to Coos Bay – an extra 30 miles further away from my start point than planned – but whats a wee extra 30 miles in the grand scheme of things??

Just need to keep my fingers cross that when I arrive at Portland Airport,  that Bertie does too.!

Last night I cycled to Logie Kirk with the intention of walking up Dumyat – realised not long after leaving the bike that any get and go had got up and went  so decided to take some flowery pictures instead.

Bertie and I got the chance of a lift to Skye on Friday and the forecast was looking fantastic.   I’ve been to Skye a number of times over the last 15 or so years,  but I’m never sure if I actually liked Skye or not – there are certain aspects I’ve thoroughly enjoyed but it’s never been my favourite island – at the same time,  though,   I don’t think I’ve ever given it a fair chance,  and the reason for this – well,  I’ve nearly always arrived on a Friday night in the dark and left late afternoon / early evening on the Sunday in the dark and have nearly always gone to The Cuillin’s – now without a doubt the The Cuillin Ridge has to been one of the,  if not,  the most stunning and dramatic mountain ridges in the UK – but to someone like me who doesn’t really enjoy scrambling the mountains are really quite intimidating – having said that I did have fantastic day on the In Pinn (Inaccessible Pinnacle) some years ago,  and a few others beside.   Other than this though I’ve not really explored the rest of Skye.

On Saturday,  though I fell in love with Skye – well the bit I saw anyway.   Bertie and I set off from the YHA carpark in Glen Brittle 8am on Saturday with the aim of cycling to Neist Point Lighthouse – hills,  wind direction and my legs would determine what route I would take back to the rendezvous point with my lift on the way back.  Cycling out of Glen Brittle was beautiful but tough and we had a number of take in the views stops (aka my lungs need a breather stops).   Bertie got abandoned for a wee while when I went to investigate the Dun Beag Broch (The Small Fort) – definitely a Broch with a view.

My next stop was at St John’s Chapel – if I’d been in a car I probably would have zipped past it and not thought any more of it – but the sign had caught my eye but the Chapel hadn’t – where was it?   Time to abandon Bertie again and go for a wee wander and investigation.   The Chapel is a wee old ruin, below the road,  hidden by trees and on the shore of Loch Caroy and has to be the most gorgeous and tranquil grave yard and church I have seen – peace and quiet except for the birdies singing – and lots of bluebells and primroses and other flowers – think I might like my ashes scattered here.

My next stop was unplanned too – I’d missed the turn off to Glendale and Neist Point and accidentally carried on to Dunvegan – now I reckon most people drive right through Dunvegan to visit the Castle,  and don’t stop in the village itself – well you should stop and visit the Giant Angus MacAskill Museum – it’s just a little museum,  with a big heart, dedicated to the world’s tallest giant – “The 1981 Guinness Book of World Records posits Angus as the tallest non-pathological giant in recorded history (7 ft 9 in, or 2.36 m), as well as being the man with the largest chest measurements of any non-obese man (80 inches, or 200 cm).”   The museum is run by the very friendly Mr Peter MacAskill,  who turns out to be the father of the world famous stunt cyclist Danny MacAskill.   Glad I made my wee accidental detour to Dunvegan.

Finally made it to Neist Point Lighthouse – the wind was mostly with me on the way but oh my word it was hard going on the way back and I had to admit defeat and push Bertie up one wee short section.   Bertie was abandoned again while I walked the last mile and a bit to get to the lighthouse – and what can I say – I love lighthouses – the architecture, the history,  the ruggedness and scenery where they are (mostly) built.

I returned mostly by the same route as I had come but instead of heading back to Glen Brittle I went to The Slig (Sligachan Hotel) for a wee 1/2 pint before myself and Bertie were loaded in and on the van for our return journey to the mainland.   Great day out – must go back for another visit – and this is why I love cycle touring – you see stuff that you might miss if you are in a car.

69.4 miles when the Garmin battery had enough – reckon I did another 4 or 5 miles on top of this.

Leading up to any event,  whether it’s one or one hundred miles,  whether it’s a run or bike ride or whatever your sport  is – there will always be niggles and doubts – have I trained enough;  have I done enough miles;  have I done enough hills;  should I have a day off;  should I squeeze in one more training session;  should I have had that pint of cider last night;  etc etc.   Last weekend I got in a 40 and 45 mile bike ride – had hoped to do more on the Saturday but tired legs from the previous days run and a strong headwind I decided to cut things short – on the Sunday I was faring not bad but not far from home Bertie decided he’d had enough!   And whether I wanted to or not there was going to be no mid week cycling this week!

Dr Nige was away for the weekend but I messaged to see if he could diagnose the problem and could he fix it?    Message went along lines of “chain looks fine; gears working fine but as soon as I stop pedalling chain feels as if it is jumping all over the place as if it’s going to come off”.   Message back – “aye – I can probably fix it”   Dr Nige didn’t get home until after 11pm on Monday night – a quick look at bike diagnosed a “rear freehub failure” – plan:  order one online asap so that bike can be fixed before I head North on Thursday but plan failed – there does not seem to be any stock except in Germany and they won’t arrive in time – plan 2:  take bike to local bike shop who confirm diagnosis but do not have a spare part and also can not get one in time – plan 3:  contact the bike shop in Dingwall where I will be spending the weekend – they are almost certain that they have the right part but someone has already opened the packet and they can’t be 100% sure until they see the bike – Bertie is pushed to the train station on Thursday night and we take the 3 trains from Stirling to Dingwall and we had a high speed run between platforms at Inverness so that we could make our connection – Friday morning bike is dropped off at Dryburgh Cyles in Dingwall – a phonecall mid afternoon confirrms that Bertie is all fixed and ready to go having had the rear freehub replaced and a new derailleur fitted – not able to collect Bertie until Saturday morning but a wee bike ride confirms that he is all ready for the Loch Ness Etape the following day (and hoping that I am as well).

6.35am see’s me and a now fixed Bertie at the start line of the Loch Ness Etape – no expectations of time – I find it impossible to judge but reckon I should make it ok.   The first 33 miles lure you into a false sense of security – 33 miles of gently undulating terrain with beautiful scenery – the scenery continues but we hit the King of the Mountain section – I was expecting hills but not sure when or how much – sometimes it better not to know.   Oh my word the first one is a beast – a fair number of folks are having to push there bikes – I’m on a mission I’m determined that I won’t be one of the them – puff,  puff, f..k,  puff,  puff,  shit – I wasn’t the only one swearing under their breath on the way up – it was tough keeping the momentum;  trying to pass the slower cyclists and those pushing their steeds and at the same time trying not to get in the way of the faster riders – me and Bertie made it and relax on the other side but in quick succession came hills 2 and 3 – neither as long or as steep but still tough on legs that haven’t had time to recover – but a welcoming sound as the Piper plays to let us know we have conquered the King of the Mountain section – easier cycling now but I’m on a mission – still another 20 miles to go but I’m determined to maintain my pace and push myself on, barely stopping to eat or drink – I’m one of the few not on a road bike and I get a few (friendly) comments about my steed and why I’ve got a pannier – I had meant to leave the pannier behind but paranoia about not having enough food or extra layers I opted to take it – I should have left it behind.   Another pull about 10 miles before the homeward stretch and finish line and a well desreved (I think) “Harry Gow Dream Ring” doughnut – boy that went down well.

A big thank you to Team Support (aka Mum and Dad) for looking after me and driving me between Dingwall and Inverness and a huge thanks to Dryburgh Cycles for fixing Bertie at very late notice.

“Freehub” – the thingy in the middle of your back wheel that stops your chain spinning round – I now know a little more about bike maintenance!