Blonde Bird On A Bike

Cycling east from Aosta to St Vincent on the Dora Baltea River cycle route, except where I missed the signs or the signs disappeared – nice easy cycling, apart from one wee gravelly uphill. Where I missed my turn I could have gone back a short way and then continued on the correct route; gone through a busy tunnel that I didn’t fancy or go on the old road that skirted right of the tunnel and this seemed to best alternative except that it was closed for maintenance – closed but the metal barrier was open so I decided to take my chances – the road was a bit pot holed but in terms of work going on when I went past there wasn’t too much going on and no heavy machinary and by pure chance when I got to the other end of the works a workman was opening the barrier so that he could drive in and I just cycled past – if anyone was bothered by me cycling through they never said.

At St Vincent the river takes a right turn and both my route and the river heads south south east towards Ivrea – a bit more undulating and scenery more interesting as we travel through a steep sided valley – on nearly every raised area there seems to be a tower or small fort or cross to mark it.

Bard with it’s fortress looked particularly interesting.

At Ivrea I stopped to watch the Kayak Slalom and had a quick wander around the town.

Conscious of time though and trying to cover as much distance on the mostly flat terrain I carried on to Camping Del Sole on Lake Viverone where I was going to spend the night.

As usual the last bit seemed to take longer and the sun was starting to dip and I was getting tired – the map indicated the campsite wasn’t far away but I stopped a man and his son who were cycling the other way to confirm that I was going the right way – I think I mumbled a mix of French and English with an attempt of an Italian accent “is the campsite nearby” – turned out that “Struan” and his Dad were from Scotland but had been living in the area for about 18 months but didn’t know where the campsite was.

Campsite wasn’t far away at all though and I got shown the area for tents or alternatively camping under the long carport as it may rain overnight – one other cyclist already had his tent pitched there and seemed confident we were in for a downpour so I opted to do the same.

Nice campsite with a wee bar and I enjoyed a wee white wine before going to bed – still dry at this point but at some point after 11pm the heavens opened and thunder and lightening storm overhead. The carport seemed to be doing the job initially but at some point the rain started coming through and landing on the tent.

Up early the next morning as keen to get more miles under my belt. Tent all good on the inside but very wet on the outside – my fellow cyclist’s tent seemed to be bone dry though – what did he know that I didn’t or did he just get lucky?

Good first 22 miles or so – rain had come on but still pleasant for cycling in. Quiet roads initially and busier towns but there were cycle paths – nothing like the infrastructure in France and Belgium though. In the town of Vercelli on a shared pavement was where I got my first puncture – hopefully last but don’t want to tempt fate – it was starting to get busy with pedestrians and having a shared pavement wasn’t ideal for either cyclists or pedestrians and I was about to use the road when my rear end (of the bike) went all sluggish – puncture – and this coincided with the rain getting much heavier. I pushed Phil to the end of the road where there was kind of a square, took everything off the bike; up ended Phil; rear wheel came off relatively easily – I hate taking the rear wheel on and off; tyre off and found the cause of the puncture pretty quickly; pressed the inside of the tyre against the metal electrical box that I was next to so that I could push the sharp object back to the outside of the tyre and remove it – again surprised at how easy I got it out and it turned out to be a bit of glass; inflated the inner tube to patch the hole but it was deflating so quickly I couldn’t locate the hole and it was now pouring with rain so went for the easier option of using a new inner tube; at some point during this realised that I’d cut my thumb on the glass and there was blood on me, the inner tube, pavement, etc and I’m now trying to put everything back together with my thumb wrapped in a sweaty-snotty-when did I last wash it hanky – this combined with rain water and a manky tyre all probably a good case for an infection but writing this a good few days later all seems good except for a sizable scar on my thumb – yes I should have used tweezers to remove the glass from the tyre but went for the quicker option. Inner tube and tyre back on but then I have a fight getting the wheel back into place – I’ve done this a number of times over the years and been shown what to do countless times and I still struggle with it – occasionally I get it to slot in nice and easy but this time make a complete pigs breakfast of it and somehow I’ve managed to jam the wheel half in half out and I can’t budge it! Transpires that there is a bike shop only a couple of minutes away but seems like ages away when I firstly carry my panniers and tent and leave them at the shop and then go back for an abandoned upside down Phil. Carrying the bike isn’t easy but a nice fellow stops to help, thinking it’s just the chain that’s slipped – his hands are now covered in my bike oil but luckily doesn’t seem to have got any on his nice white sweat shirt – he translates to the bike shop what the problem is, makes use of the shop’s sink to wash his hands and goes on his way. It doesn’t take long to get bike fixed but I really must get better at doing this myself as there is not always going to be someone nearby to help me – need to get booked onto a bike maintenance course when I get home!

While waiting for my bicycle to be fixed I got speaking to another customer who suggested going to Lucca via Genoa – I’d already considered this and it ticked a lot of boxes – shorter route (but only about 18 miles); I would see more of the coast and Genoa has the tallest lighthouse on the Mediterranean – HOWEVER – there would be significantly more uphill which would take me much longer (and also the lighthouse wouldn’t be open) so I decided to stick to my plan of continuing east before heading south to the coast.

By the time I left the bicycle shop the rain had stopped and it stayed dry for the rest of the time. I continued through the town and spotted my my white sweatered helper from earlier and he spotted me – turns out his name was Angelo, which translates to “angel”. We chatted for a while and everything I said he told me how to say the key words in Italian – it was a shame I couldn’t spend longer with him as he was so friendly and helpful and I know I would have picked up more of the language.

It was a beautiful afternoon and evening and the terrain was easy going so pushed on still trying to cover as much ground as possible. Later on though I was cycling towards ominously threatening clouds – this combined with the next campsite being quite a distance away I booked myself into a wee hotel – I feel as if turned into a lightweight but it was a definitely a good move – it was at the end of the road, just outside the town of Calendasco, on the Po river. After not getting much sleep in the tent with the thunder and lightening and the noisy hotel the night before that this hotel was perfect – no noise at all and I got a much need good night’s sleep – I also missed the rain – judging by the water on the road it had been heavy in places but I missed it all.

The Po area is Italy’s rice growing area – the biggest rice growing area in Europe – unfortunately this also means an increase in biting beasties – I’ve had very little problems with insects until dropping down into Italy but now I’m sure they are all out to get me!

As well as insects I’m seeing different birds and seen a few flocks of what I think are black headed ibis – please tell me if anyone thinks different.

Going from France to Belgium and then Belgium to Luxembourg and back to France and then France to Switzerland there were definite differences in terms of architecture and scenery but this was more gradual, whereas going to Italy it was a much more obvious change and probably because there was a much more obvious boundary and this is particularly noticeable with the cars – both in types of cars and the driving styles. France and Belgium had a similar mix of vehicles to back home in terms of make and types of cars – Luxembourg and Switzerland everything seemed bigger and flashier and I don’t think I ever saw an unclean or dented or scratched car – in Italy there is everything from the wee 3 wheeled APE vans and lots of really old Fiat Pandas (in various states of repair) to flash Porches and everything in between and there is a lot of bashed and scratched cars about.

Up the next morning breakfast was included – I haven’t been eating a lot – not sure why but not been very hungry – but thought that getting some proten in me would be a good and assumed it would be a European breakfast with cold meat and cheese and if I’m lucky boiled eggs – however lots of sweet stuff was on offer and I started off the day with a croissant and Nutella and a generous slice of lemon pie – don’t know if this is typical of an Italian breakfast?? And it was back on the road again – 2 more sleeps and 2 and a bit more days cycling until I make it to Lucca.

Very quick update. I’ve arrived in Lucca and met my Dad. The tracker is off for the next 3 or 4 days. I’ll post a proper blog over the next few days.

I arrived in Martigny a day later than planned. As soon as I saw Lake Geneva from just west of Lausanne I knew I didn’t want to just cycle along it without stopping – the sun was shining and the lake looked stunning. At the same though I couldn’t really afford to lose time so continued cycling to the most south westerly campsite on the lake, with the intention of putting the tent up reasonably early and going paddling in the lake.

Glad I didnt go further the previous day there was quite a long section on trail – nothing I wasn’t capable of doing but wouldn’t have fancied it on tired legs and think I would have got to Lausanne very late if I’d carried on.

One of the trail sections took me up between 2 railway tracks – double checked map in case the signs weren’t pointing the right way as this seemed a bit strange – as it happens the track to my right came to and end not long after but no fence or anything on either side of the cycle path.

The last uphill before getting to Lake Geneva took me to a church with lovely views towards the lake – quarter past 10 and not had breakfast yet and it seemed a nice place to stop but having a picnic in a church ground seemed a bit cheeky – however the church had benches and bins in perfect position and were obviously ok with picnicing and I had a weird late breakfast of sushi (that hadn’t got eaten the previous day).

It was lovely cycling along the lake side but the further east I got the busier the path got with walkers and at times impossible to cycle on – at one point the path was taken up by a Tesla and Porche Car show. So on some stretches I ignored the suggested cycle route and did what the locals did and went through the town instead. Overall it was still lovely though and watching people on paddle boards and pedalos and sailing or just playing in the water made me keener to get the tent up and get my feet in the water. Tent up at the town of Villeneuve and off NOT to paddle – lots of signs up that due to bacteria there was NO paddle boarding, pedalos, swimming etc – so that was disappointing but I enjoyed just relaxing in the sun watching the world go by before having a wander in the town when it started to get a bit chillier.

Nice easy bike ride to Martigny following cycle route 1 / The Rhone Route. Wanted to get to the campsite before it closed for lunch at 12pm – had plenty of time but stopped to take photos and had a relaxed late breakfast in the sun and ended up rushing, not helped by the barriers coming down just in front of me as a train was coming, litterally when I was a few minutes from the campsite. I got there with 3 minutes to spare but Swiss time was more than punctual and reception was all ready shut, however someone came to the window when I rang the bell and I was allowed to pitch my tent, use the showers, etc but to return later to pay.

I went to see the Barry dogs as they were called before adopting the name Saint Bernard dogs and learnt about there history and there ties with the Saint Bernard Pass.

At the other side of town I walked to the Chateau de la Batiaz, a 13th century castle – now used as a restaurant but you climb can up the tower for free.

Martigny is surrounded by hills on 3 sides. When I approached from the nice easy route I had taken I could see a various roads tightly zigzaging down to the town and on spot I decided that I needed a backup plan to get over the pass into Italy – that would be the Flix Bus – I wasn’t convinced at all I would make it over the pass but felt I should give it ago – worst case scenario I can freewheel back to town and organise a bus ticket for me and Phil – the Flix Bus would bypass the last few miles up to the actual col which would be disappointing – as it turns out there is another bus that does go to the col and takes bikes but I didn’t know this at the time – I still wasn’t ready to give in though. Rain was forecast for the next day but not until early afternoon – if I was going to do this I needed to be prepared for an early start!

After 2 false starts I finally get onto the road properly. I took a wrong turn not long after leaving the campsite on a horribly steep bit of road – realised my mistake but if the route had been like that I definitely would have been on the bus. When I took the correct route through the town I had to take a left turn to join the road proper – the road was busier than I expected with traffic both going up and down – for the 2nd time I wondered if I should take the bus. I ended up getting off Phil and running to the other side of the road before setting off. The first 4 miles were easy; up to about mile 10 not too bad but after this getting harder and having lots of stops. There were a number of stretches of road works which overall I managed to use to my benefit – stop for a breather, wait for a wave of traffic to go by and when the last vehicle went by set off again. There was one long gallery tunnel – 6km I think, of gradual up – I was glad there was a few exits, mostly for works vehicles but one turned out to be a heli-pad, where I could have a wee breather. Just before the next tunnel there is a right hand turn for those who want to go up to the actual col, ie the tourist route and not long after is where the “fun” begins – I’ve cycled about 24 miles of up – I’ve gained a lot of height but lots of the remaining height has been packed into 3 miles – I cycle the initial bit – I have still have a remaining gear but neither my legs or head are up for it and we walk most of the way up and it’s not fun – the top is in mist but luckily the forecasted rain stays away – I want the Barry dogs I saw yesterday to come and rescue me – a few lycra clad cyclists pass me but even they are struggling – one manages to squeeze out a Bonjour on the way past; one is doing an up and down and stops on the way back down to make sure I’m ok; one lovely couple in a beat up red campervan offer me a lift the final 2km to the top but I’m determined to get there under my own steam I’m so close now and it wasn’t an ideal place to stop for them. I only see one other tourer the whole day – he has come up from the Italian side – he camped about half way up the previous night – he also stops on his way down to make sure I’m ok – turns out he’s from Edinburgh – what are the chances of that – anyway we have a natter and that combined with having a breather I’ve found a wee spring in my step finally pushed Phil to the top – bit disappointed that I didn’t manage to cycle it all but chuffed that we made it. Had a well deserved (I think) waffle and coke at the top – unfortunately only one photo at the top as it was cold in the mist and the views had vanished.

I didn’t stop at the museum unfortunately – chilly and tired we headed down but not before buying a Barry / Saint Bernard dogs at the top – oops.

A fantastic downhill almost all the way to Aosta without any uphill – originally I was going to camp but when I was chilly at the top I decided to book myself a room in a hotel near the campsite – I should have saved myself the money – room was clean and comfy but been travelling for 5 weeks now and it was the worst shower by far that I’ve had and the soundproofing was terrible between snoring and early morning bedroom antics from my next door neighbours I didn’t get much sleep.

Views on the way down – didn’t take long to pop out of the mist. Chilly wind on the way down – first time this holiday that I’ve had shoes on rather than sandals and glad of this.

So we made it I’m very pleased to say. Someday I’ll make a return visit – maybe by campervan – maybe on foot – I saw a number of walkers on my way past.

Check out my ride on Strava: https://strava.app.link/SEb7ZGGXwWb

That’s me now in my 6th country of this trip – 7 if you count going to one of them twice – Scotland, England, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, back into France and now Switzerland. Unfortunately the only sign I’ve got of me entering a new country is this one –

Anyone reading my blog has heard me moaning about the hills – much more than on previous trips but today was amazing – in fact I have awarded myself 2 King of the Mountain stages and I just need the polka dot jersey now.

But I’m going back to yesterday first. I left the campsite just north of Besancon later than planned – I got chatting to one half of the Australian tandem team who were in France for 6 weeks cycle touring. I was on route south towards Lausanne on the North shore of Lake Geneva (also called Lac Leman, I’ve just found out) but knew it was unlikely that I would get that far – in fact I didn’t get very far at all!

It had poured during the night but the tent was reasonably dry when I packed it away – the forecast was for rain but the skies looked promising to start – they lied – as soon as I cycled through the campsite gate the heavens opened and it rained on and off all morning.

The route was easy to start, following The Doubs River and then a hideous uphill to Montfaucon that overlooks Besancon from the other side of the river – the road was narrow in places and although not busy there was a wee flow of traffic going downhill, probably on their way to work in Besancon – I ended up pushing Phil uphill a fair bit.

There was a nice wee swoopy downhill on the other side and then we hid from the rain for a wee while in this fab shelter.

Uphill again but more gentle and starting to look and sound more alpine – well the cows did – and the sun had come out as well, although not for long.

Then a nice easy stretch following an old railway line and the La Loue River and took me to the pretty town of Ornans – the rain had stopped again so I abandoned the bike, had a wander and decided to treat myself to pizza for lunch while I pondered what to do with a worsening forecast.

It was still dry when I came out of the restaurant and I was still undecided – do I cycle 10km to the nearest campsite or 64km to the next one – by the time I crossed the square to get the bike my question was answered – the heavens opened and not long after I set off a flash of lightening and a roll of thunder – I pedalled off as fast as I could and as it happened there was a nearer campsite just the other side of the town. It was just a little campsite – wee strip of grass next to the river – cost 5 euros that you popped in an honesty box – I stood under the shelter and waited and waited for the rain to go off before putting the tent up – starting to get cold from the soaking I’d had but not wanting to put dry clothes on until I put the tent up – I was very tempted to put the tent up where I was standing but this turned out to be the veranda of the “chalet” that you could rent.

There was no sign of a let up and I had no desire to put up the tent – I also did not want to spend a lot of money but decided to look up booking-com, looked up cheapest first and there 11km further south there was a room with a shared bathroom and kitchen – only £24 – it was booked as quickly as my wet wrinkled figures could type and cycled there as fast as I could – I had to wait a few minutes for someone to let me – I was soaked anyway so a few more minutes wasn’t going to make any difference. Shown to my room which was upstairs along with the bathroom and kitchen and downstairs he got the log fire going for me and produced an airer for me to dry my clothes – I was in heaven – this place was geared up for walkers, cyclists and canoeists but I was the only one staying that night.

I should have left sharp this morning – everything was packed ready to go and the forecast had changed overnight and looked much more promising but I was too comfy to go but finally made it outside.

When I set off yesterday I had plotted a route between Besancon and Lausanne but hadn’t payed too much interest as to what was in between – transpired that the first uphill of the day was through The Gorges de La Loue – fab road, above the river, that zigged and zagged – lots of stops to take photos but no pushing required – my photos really don’t do it justice.

Later on in the day back into more alpine scenery and cows with bells – and a few goats too – another fantastic 2 uphills and a very long swoopy downhill off the second one – I need to look back at my map to see the names of the area I passed through but feeling very chuffed with myself and a bit more confident with the hills. I also need to check out my front brake though, which seemed to be making strange noises – note to self DO NOT TOUCH THE DISC OF THE BRAKE UNTIL IT HAS COOLED DOWN!

I had hoped to get to Lausanne today but still had over an hour and a half of cycling and that was Googles guesstimate so reckoned it would be more so opted to aim for Camping des Buis in Sarraz which was about 35 minutes away – when I got there the campsite reception was closed but the restaurant staff tracked the owner down who has let me camp for free tonight – I didn’t have to but felt I should give the restaurant a go – it was quite posh, I thought, in terms of menu for a campsite restaurant – I opted for the Spaghetti Noir – black squid pasta with seafood – it was delicious – that and 2 cokes came to £33 – but considering I was in Switzerland and didn’t have to pay for the campsite it could have been a lot worse.

So I’m about to get tucked up in my sleeping bag and tomorrow I’m hoping to get to Martigny and possibly have an attempt on the St Bernard’s Pass the following day but only time will tell and I should do a wee weather check as well. Night folks.