Month: September 2025

I arrived in Martigny a day later than planned. As soon as I saw Lake Geneva from just west of Lausanne I knew I didn’t want to just cycle along it without stopping – the sun was shining and the lake looked stunning. At the same though I couldn’t really afford to lose time so continued cycling to the most south westerly campsite on the lake, with the intention of putting the tent up reasonably early and going paddling in the lake.

Glad I didnt go further the previous day there was quite a long section on trail – nothing I wasn’t capable of doing but wouldn’t have fancied it on tired legs and think I would have got to Lausanne very late if I’d carried on.

One of the trail sections took me up between 2 railway tracks – double checked map in case the signs weren’t pointing the right way as this seemed a bit strange – as it happens the track to my right came to and end not long after but no fence or anything on either side of the cycle path.

The last uphill before getting to Lake Geneva took me to a church with lovely views towards the lake – quarter past 10 and not had breakfast yet and it seemed a nice place to stop but having a picnic in a church ground seemed a bit cheeky – however the church had benches and bins in perfect position and were obviously ok with picnicing and I had a weird late breakfast of sushi (that hadn’t got eaten the previous day).

It was lovely cycling along the lake side but the further east I got the busier the path got with walkers and at times impossible to cycle on – at one point the path was taken up by a Tesla and Porche Car show. So on some stretches I ignored the suggested cycle route and did what the locals did and went through the town instead. Overall it was still lovely though and watching people on paddle boards and pedalos and sailing or just playing in the water made me keener to get the tent up and get my feet in the water. Tent up at the town of Villeneuve and off NOT to paddle – lots of signs up that due to bacteria there was NO paddle boarding, pedalos, swimming etc – so that was disappointing but I enjoyed just relaxing in the sun watching the world go by before having a wander in the town when it started to get a bit chillier.

Nice easy bike ride to Martigny following cycle route 1 / The Rhone Route. Wanted to get to the campsite before it closed for lunch at 12pm – had plenty of time but stopped to take photos and had a relaxed late breakfast in the sun and ended up rushing, not helped by the barriers coming down just in front of me as a train was coming, litterally when I was a few minutes from the campsite. I got there with 3 minutes to spare but Swiss time was more than punctual and reception was all ready shut, however someone came to the window when I rang the bell and I was allowed to pitch my tent, use the showers, etc but to return later to pay.

I went to see the Barry dogs as they were called before adopting the name Saint Bernard dogs and learnt about there history and there ties with the Saint Bernard Pass.

At the other side of town I walked to the Chateau de la Batiaz, a 13th century castle – now used as a restaurant but you climb can up the tower for free.

Martigny is surrounded by hills on 3 sides. When I approached from the nice easy route I had taken I could see a various roads tightly zigzaging down to the town and on spot I decided that I needed a backup plan to get over the pass into Italy – that would be the Flix Bus – I wasn’t convinced at all I would make it over the pass but felt I should give it ago – worst case scenario I can freewheel back to town and organise a bus ticket for me and Phil – the Flix Bus would bypass the last few miles up to the actual col which would be disappointing – as it turns out there is another bus that does go to the col and takes bikes but I didn’t know this at the time – I still wasn’t ready to give in though. Rain was forecast for the next day but not until early afternoon – if I was going to do this I needed to be prepared for an early start!

After 2 false starts I finally get onto the road properly. I took a wrong turn not long after leaving the campsite on a horribly steep bit of road – realised my mistake but if the route had been like that I definitely would have been on the bus. When I took the correct route through the town I had to take a left turn to join the road proper – the road was busier than I expected with traffic both going up and down – for the 2nd time I wondered if I should take the bus. I ended up getting off Phil and running to the other side of the road before setting off. The first 4 miles were easy; up to about mile 10 not too bad but after this getting harder and having lots of stops. There were a number of stretches of road works which overall I managed to use to my benefit – stop for a breather, wait for a wave of traffic to go by and when the last vehicle went by set off again. There was one long gallery tunnel – 6km I think, of gradual up – I was glad there was a few exits, mostly for works vehicles but one turned out to be a heli-pad, where I could have a wee breather. Just before the next tunnel there is a right hand turn for those who want to go up to the actual col, ie the tourist route and not long after is where the “fun” begins – I’ve cycled about 24 miles of up – I’ve gained a lot of height but lots of the remaining height has been packed into 3 miles – I cycle the initial bit – I have still have a remaining gear but neither my legs or head are up for it and we walk most of the way up and it’s not fun – the top is in mist but luckily the forecasted rain stays away – I want the Barry dogs I saw yesterday to come and rescue me – a few lycra clad cyclists pass me but even they are struggling – one manages to squeeze out a Bonjour on the way past; one is doing an up and down and stops on the way back down to make sure I’m ok; one lovely couple in a beat up red campervan offer me a lift the final 2km to the top but I’m determined to get there under my own steam I’m so close now and it wasn’t an ideal place to stop for them. I only see one other tourer the whole day – he has come up from the Italian side – he camped about half way up the previous night – he also stops on his way down to make sure I’m ok – turns out he’s from Edinburgh – what are the chances of that – anyway we have a natter and that combined with having a breather I’ve found a wee spring in my step finally pushed Phil to the top – bit disappointed that I didn’t manage to cycle it all but chuffed that we made it. Had a well deserved (I think) waffle and coke at the top – unfortunately only one photo at the top as it was cold in the mist and the views had vanished.

I didn’t stop at the museum unfortunately – chilly and tired we headed down but not before buying a Barry / Saint Bernard dogs at the top – oops.

A fantastic downhill almost all the way to Aosta without any uphill – originally I was going to camp but when I was chilly at the top I decided to book myself a room in a hotel near the campsite – I should have saved myself the money – room was clean and comfy but been travelling for 5 weeks now and it was the worst shower by far that I’ve had and the soundproofing was terrible between snoring and early morning bedroom antics from my next door neighbours I didn’t get much sleep.

Views on the way down – didn’t take long to pop out of the mist. Chilly wind on the way down – first time this holiday that I’ve had shoes on rather than sandals and glad of this.

So we made it I’m very pleased to say. Someday I’ll make a return visit – maybe by campervan – maybe on foot – I saw a number of walkers on my way past.

Check out my ride on Strava: https://strava.app.link/SEb7ZGGXwWb

That’s me now in my 6th country of this trip – 7 if you count going to one of them twice – Scotland, England, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, back into France and now Switzerland. Unfortunately the only sign I’ve got of me entering a new country is this one –

Anyone reading my blog has heard me moaning about the hills – much more than on previous trips but today was amazing – in fact I have awarded myself 2 King of the Mountain stages and I just need the polka dot jersey now.

But I’m going back to yesterday first. I left the campsite just north of Besancon later than planned – I got chatting to one half of the Australian tandem team who were in France for 6 weeks cycle touring. I was on route south towards Lausanne on the North shore of Lake Geneva (also called Lac Leman, I’ve just found out) but knew it was unlikely that I would get that far – in fact I didn’t get very far at all!

It had poured during the night but the tent was reasonably dry when I packed it away – the forecast was for rain but the skies looked promising to start – they lied – as soon as I cycled through the campsite gate the heavens opened and it rained on and off all morning.

The route was easy to start, following The Doubs River and then a hideous uphill to Montfaucon that overlooks Besancon from the other side of the river – the road was narrow in places and although not busy there was a wee flow of traffic going downhill, probably on their way to work in Besancon – I ended up pushing Phil uphill a fair bit.

There was a nice wee swoopy downhill on the other side and then we hid from the rain for a wee while in this fab shelter.

Uphill again but more gentle and starting to look and sound more alpine – well the cows did – and the sun had come out as well, although not for long.

Then a nice easy stretch following an old railway line and the La Loue River and took me to the pretty town of Ornans – the rain had stopped again so I abandoned the bike, had a wander and decided to treat myself to pizza for lunch while I pondered what to do with a worsening forecast.

It was still dry when I came out of the restaurant and I was still undecided – do I cycle 10km to the nearest campsite or 64km to the next one – by the time I crossed the square to get the bike my question was answered – the heavens opened and not long after I set off a flash of lightening and a roll of thunder – I pedalled off as fast as I could and as it happened there was a nearer campsite just the other side of the town. It was just a little campsite – wee strip of grass next to the river – cost 5 euros that you popped in an honesty box – I stood under the shelter and waited and waited for the rain to go off before putting the tent up – starting to get cold from the soaking I’d had but not wanting to put dry clothes on until I put the tent up – I was very tempted to put the tent up where I was standing but this turned out to be the veranda of the “chalet” that you could rent.

There was no sign of a let up and I had no desire to put up the tent – I also did not want to spend a lot of money but decided to look up booking-com, looked up cheapest first and there 11km further south there was a room with a shared bathroom and kitchen – only £24 – it was booked as quickly as my wet wrinkled figures could type and cycled there as fast as I could – I had to wait a few minutes for someone to let me – I was soaked anyway so a few more minutes wasn’t going to make any difference. Shown to my room which was upstairs along with the bathroom and kitchen and downstairs he got the log fire going for me and produced an airer for me to dry my clothes – I was in heaven – this place was geared up for walkers, cyclists and canoeists but I was the only one staying that night.

I should have left sharp this morning – everything was packed ready to go and the forecast had changed overnight and looked much more promising but I was too comfy to go but finally made it outside.

When I set off yesterday I had plotted a route between Besancon and Lausanne but hadn’t payed too much interest as to what was in between – transpired that the first uphill of the day was through The Gorges de La Loue – fab road, above the river, that zigged and zagged – lots of stops to take photos but no pushing required – my photos really don’t do it justice.

Later on in the day back into more alpine scenery and cows with bells – and a few goats too – another fantastic 2 uphills and a very long swoopy downhill off the second one – I need to look back at my map to see the names of the area I passed through but feeling very chuffed with myself and a bit more confident with the hills. I also need to check out my front brake though, which seemed to be making strange noises – note to self DO NOT TOUCH THE DISC OF THE BRAKE UNTIL IT HAS COOLED DOWN!

I had hoped to get to Lausanne today but still had over an hour and a half of cycling and that was Googles guesstimate so reckoned it would be more so opted to aim for Camping des Buis in Sarraz which was about 35 minutes away – when I got there the campsite reception was closed but the restaurant staff tracked the owner down who has let me camp for free tonight – I didn’t have to but felt I should give the restaurant a go – it was quite posh, I thought, in terms of menu for a campsite restaurant – I opted for the Spaghetti Noir – black squid pasta with seafood – it was delicious – that and 2 cokes came to £33 – but considering I was in Switzerland and didn’t have to pay for the campsite it could have been a lot worse.

So I’m about to get tucked up in my sleeping bag and tomorrow I’m hoping to get to Martigny and possibly have an attempt on the St Bernard’s Pass the following day but only time will tell and I should do a wee weather check as well. Night folks.

As well as the hotel being very close to the main square it was also very close to the river so a nice easy start to the day and it continued like that for the whole day – just lovely pleasant cycling.

The hardest part of today was making sure I didn’t run over any lizzards – it was grey first thing but when the sun got up later on in the day there was loads of lizzards scurrying across the path and some of them were tiny, not much more than an inch long – as far as I’m aware I managed to avoid them all.

The other advantage to this route is there were a number of campsites nearby and there was signs to them from the cycle path. I had a campsite in mind for the end of the day but it was slightly off route and it was big with a pool with slides and a park, which is great if you’ve got kids but not what I was really looking for. Luckily as came into Fontenoy-le-Chateau there was a sign for a wee campsite, only 2km away but 2km uphill – good decision though – lovely little campsite, great toasty warm showers – only cost £10.60 including the tin of coke that I’d bought and had a lovely wee decked area with a bar and restaurant and one of the campers I’d met at the Metz campsite 2 nights ago, and had also stayed in Nancy the night before was there – he had obviously cycled significantly faster than me as already had his tent up and was on to his 2nd beer. Another cyclist who I’d passed earlier also arrived and the 3 of us had a lovely evening and I got some tips for the next day.

Conscious of time and not able to do the long days I used to and also to stop giving myself a hard time about how far or not I have travelled I have rejigged my route. I have also changed my route so that it includes The Saint Bernard Pass – the Via Francigena walking route takes in the The Saint Bernard Pass – the Eurovolo 5 cycling route takes in a pass further to the east – based on my hill fitness at the moment it is debatable if I can cycle up either pass but I have opted to give the Saint Bernard Pass a go as I’d like to see the museum near the top. So I have abandoned the EV5 at the present time and taking a more direct route to Lucca where I’m meeting my Dad for a few days on the 13th of September.

Leaving Luxembourg – a good network of paths south but largely not signed so lots of stop starts to check the map so slow progress despite being on mostly easy ground and to be honest a bit of a pain in the ass at times. Then I finally met The Moselle River and the well marked V50 / La Voie Bleue route – well mostly well signed until I missed a junction somewhere and the only sign was along the lines of “peas in season this way”.

As well as well marked it was lovely easy cycling and I was starting to see more cycle tourists including 2 Danish girls on there first bike tour and had cycled from Denmark, using river and canal routes and generally as flat as possible – why didn’t think of that?

A few views along the River, including The Loch Ness Monster!

I hadn’t planned on stopping at Metz but there was campsite right on the bank of the river – I just needed to cross the bridge to the other side and at 3.30 I stopped for the day and pitched my tent along with a number of other tourers – 2 girls from Germany on their first bike tour who had just arrived by train and were going to cycle home and a German fellow who was cycling from Luxembourg to Lyon, amongst others – good to know I’m not the only nutter about.

Tent up and showered and wasn’t sure if I could be bothered going for a wander around the town but it was only 5pm and very glad I did – Metz is a lovely city with a nice atmosphere and felt quite compact and easy to see lots of stuff to and I went a bit trigger happy taking photos. The Cathedral was beautiful – grey bricked high vaulted ceiling that you would expect it to make it feel cold but had a nice warm air to it that I can only put down to the lovely glow coming from the many stained glass windows. There was also a live gig somewhere which I could listen to from the campsite and by time I got tucked into my sleeping bag a huge fireworks display went off – I couldn’t see them but I could certainly hear them and some of the dogs on the campsite and the local heron didn’t seem too happy about it.

Next morning I was the first of the cyclists up and away, partly because I don’t tend to eat breakfast until I’ve got a few miles done. I remembered that I hadn’t paid – I thought it strange that that they asked you to pay when you leave and what if walkers and cyclists did a runner?? – cars, caravans etc can’t because they need the barrier raised – not that I was planning on doing a runner but Clipboard Guy made sure I didn’t – if you’ve ever watched the film Chalet Girl you’ll know what I mean. Another good campsite and only cost £10.98 for the night.

Continuing along Moselle – zigzaging across river at various points. Dry when I left the campsite but soon it began to drizzle – jacket on / jacket off kinda of morning and I did wonder what possessed me to go with lightweight water resistant rather than waterproof but as I never zipped it up it wasn’t going to keep me dry anyway.

At some point I caught up with John, a cyclist from the Netherlands – he had started in the south of the Netherlands and was aiming for Lyon – we cycled together for a couple of hours and blethered about the usual stuff: family, work, cycle tours, etc. We seemed to be a similar pace on the flat, which we were most of the time, but when the canal towpath came to a road which it did quite frequently there was often a short but slightly steep up to get to the road, combined with making sure there were no cars coming, and often combined with a quick left or right turn or vice versa if the tow path changed from one bank of the river to the other – it quickly became apparent that John was much more adept at this than me, especially when the path took a sharp right turn and uphill, pretty much turning back on itself and also becoming narrower – John went up it no bother at all while I ended up getting off the bike and pushing Phil up – I learnt a new French word while watching the Tour de France on ITV4 (how am going to be able to watch it next year?? but that’s going off topic) – the word is “Souplesse” which is kind of how well someone handles the bike – it definitely doesn’t describe me.

Near a town called Epinal John continued south along the bike route while I made a detour to find food – at this point I checked the map to see there was a message from Karen saying the tracker wasn’t working – for some reason the record button seems to have been un-ticked so there is a very straight line between Metz and Epinal making it look like I’ve jumped on a train – I didn’t!

About 10k outside the city of Nancy and still on the Moselle River, there must have been a recent insect hatching – there was a solid cloud of wee beasties for about a kilometer and then intermittent clouds of them after that – I litterally cycled with my head down so that my face wasn’t getting covered in beasties – they weren’t big but it sounded like rain as hit they off my helmet – luckily they didn’t seem to be of the stinging variety – I was very surprised when took my helmet off, that it wasn’t covered in a coating of dead beasties.

I was forced to stop about a kilometer before I got to the wee hotel in Nancy I’d booked for the night I could smell waffles or doughnuts – certainly something sugary and tasty and just round the corner there was a stall, selling waffles and icecream and it would have been rude not to….

I couldn’t get into the hotel before 4pm – it was just little and not manned all the time. It was just off the main “Stanislas” square in Nancy so I abandoned Phil and all my belongings and jumped on the touristic choo choo train that was about to depart. I did a similar train trip in Luxembourg and it was geared for children and adults and was fun and interesting – the one in Nancy was geared for adults and I felt overloaded with too much information and have to confess to nodding off a few times – it did give me a chance to get my bearings though.

At 4pm I went to the hotel to get checked in and there were 2 older ladies from Belgium also waiting to get in but the door was locked – I tried phoning and we could hear it ringing but nobody picked up – I understood enough of the message in that it was advising us to phone a different number but despite listening to the message 3 times my french wasn’t quick enough to get the whole number so I emailed instead and a fellow on a bike appeared not much later to let us in and he was lovely and got everyone’s room sorted – mine was pokey with a tiny wee shower room but was clean tidy and at £43 and 2 minutes walk from the square it was perfect for me and Phil was locked up safely downstairs (although I’m not sure being chained up to the firecescape ladder ticked health & safety box but I was happy).

Glad I took the time to see Nancy – interesting city with great architecture but felt a bit more spread out than Metz and didn’t have the same vibe. It did have some lovely gardens though and I found a wee bar in the castle gate wall playing jazz music. If I had to choose one, I’d definitely go back to Metz.

Poured with rain during the night and at some point the electric cut out but it didn’t affect my stay and legs were fresh and ready for the next bit of bike ride.