I hadn’t intended stopping at Rome – originally I’d planned to keep going south if I could, possibly going as far as Sicily but ……
When I planned my departure date it was taking into account trying to get the maximum 3 month stay in Europe – I’d already used up a week when skiing in France earlier in the year – so to get the full 3 months if I needed it, gave me a departure date of 7th of August.
This, I reckoned, would also give me the best weather as I’m travelling south and it has – despite a couple of soakings I’ve been very lucky weatherwise – and maybe just a little too good a couple of days ago.
What I stupidly didn’t take into account was the shorter days – but even if I had I don’t think I would have changed my dates.
I enjoy travelling by myself – I do like going on holiday with friends and family too – but travelling by myself I can pick and choose where and when I go, what distance I’ll cover (or not as the case may be), what I’m going to see, etc. When I’m at home I enjoy going out but also enjoy my own company, a set of knitting needles and a log fire.
The night before I set off for Lucca I pitched my tent at a campsite not far from the Med. It had been a good but long day and I didn’t have the tent up until 8pm – and it was dark. The campsite was barely a quarter full; I was the only tent – most folks were either in campervans or the wee holiday home and despite the nice warm evening they were all sitting indoors – it just felt a bit lonely a night or 2 like this would be fine but I didn’t fancy lots of nights sitting in the dark with my wee tent and decided that Rome seemed to be a good place to stop for this trip.
So 2 days ago I set off from the campsite for the last 26 miles or so for Rome. Initially coming down the left side of Laga Bracciano and stopping at the really pretty town of Anguillara Sabazia at the south end of the lake.
Stopped just outside of Rome near to the Tiver River just as the heavens opened, so take shelter in a wee cafe. €7 for a good plate of ravioli and when I asked for the bill it came with this –
Delicious – beats an after8 by a long way!
There was a cycle path following the Tiver until I had to leave it to find my accomodation – traffic in Rome was chaotic, as expected, but seems to work and I got to my accommodation without too much difficulty. Unfortunately nowhere close by that I was comfortable leaving Phil the bike so he has been parked about 4km away at some bicycle parking.
Very sad but I got up early to retrieve Phil to take him on a photo shoot – I was hoping to beat the crowds at The Trevi Fountain but even before 8am it was busy and same at Saint Peter’s Bascillica.
Returned Phil to his parking spot – must be getting more used to Italian drivers and enjoyed the bike ride, with no incident which is just as well as realised that I hadn’t used my helmet and it was in the hostel.
So the tracker is switched off just now. I might take a wee bike ride to the coast before I come home but not decided yet as there is so much to do in Rome.
Over the next few day’s I’ll try and fill in the blanks, including London, cycling to Lucca and a wee trip to Pisa.
About 8 years ago Lyn called me “badass” – it was given as a compliment and I took it as a compliment, although I never felt I fitted the title.
Lyn was the amazing nurse I met in America when I had an accident and she let me stay with her and her fabby family – Lyn also translated my Scottish accent for the other nurses who couldn’t make me out at all – Lyn liked Scottish TV.
Badass – tough, uncompromising, or intimidating person.
Badass lady – confident, independent and strong.
Badass – can also be used to describe a bad or slightly frightening person.
I’m not sure I’m really any of the above but decided 2 days ago I was maybe a wee bit “badass”
On Sunday I was cycling from just north of a wee town called San Quirco d’Orcia to Laga di Bolsena. The Komoot route took me on route number 2 and a number of wee side roads – it was going to be another hot day – because of this I left early and as the roads had been quiet the last couple of days I decided to stick just to route 2 which would make it shorter and more importantly much less hilly – worse case scenario if the road was too busy and unpleasant I could pick up the side roads.
When I crawled out of the tent at 6am I wondered what the hell I was doing – it was still dark and the starry sky was beautiful. By the time I was finally packed up and ready to go at 7am the sun was up and it was a beautiful morning and hardly any traffic on the road.
All was going to plan and the cycling was fantastic (but still hot) until I came to the road closed sign – I was hoping to go straight and not take the windy hilly route.
The road wasn’t completely closed and the sign indicated that locals could pass through – I reckoned if locals were able to get through I’d be fine on my bike and carried on, on a completely traffic free road with no sign of roadworks until a more significant barrier……
There was still no evidence of roadworks or any noise. I googled “do roadworks take place on a Sunday?? in Italy ” Only in an emergency” according to google – that didn’t help. I’m never keen to go backwards and it was getting hot and I really didn’t want to do any more hills. I broke all construction site health and safety rules (Dad you’d had better stop reading) and snuck through a wee gap just big enough for the bike (once I’d moved a fallen post). I kept going, enjoying the scenery and having the road completely to myself but a bit apprehensive that at any moment I’m going to get a telling off and made to turn round. A good few kilometres on there were signs of works vehicles but still no construction noise and no signs of workmen and then just round the corner I came to the tunnel where the work was taking place BUT not on a Sunday thank goodness. The tunnel was well lit and looked as if it was going to be re-tarmacked but the surface was still good. A bit further on, it looked as if the tunnel was completely fenced off and my way was going to be barred – was this the point where I was going to have to admit defeat and turn round? Luckily not – there was a slightly raised walkway just wide enough for me to cycle on without having to take the panniers off, and I got a good view of the rather large hole that was being fixed.
Passed the hole and then after another kilometer or so back into daylight and a lovely gentle descent to my final barrier which was a bit harder to get round and I had to take everything off the bike, lift Phil over the barrier and put everything back on again and still not a person in sight – we had done it and as it was traffic free, the nicest tunnel I’d cycled through, knocked off a good few miles and about 1500 feet of climbing!
My footwear didn’t comply but I did have a helmet on. If this had been any other day of the week it wouldn’t have been badass at all – I would have been sent back with an embarrassing flea in my ear!
After my tunnel adventure the road started to overlap with the Via Francigena walkers route and I saw lots of walkers and gave them a wee ring of my bell and shouted hello on the way past. Further on I noticed a wee shack with walkers sitting outside in the shade of the trees and I pulled over – the wee shack was a tiny bar and made lovely fresh sandwiches. I got speaking to 3 of the walkers – a lady from Denmark who spoke very good English with an Australian accent; a lady from the north east of Italy – they were both in their late 60’s / early 70’s and a much younger Italian lady maybe in her late 20’s / early 30’s – they did not know each other from Adam when they started the walk but had formed a bond and were looking out for each other – and this was apparent with most of the walkers I got speaking to, especially the section of the route between Lucca & Rome.
They left just as a couple of cyclists heading north appeared. He was from Spain, she was from Austria and this was their 2nd big bike tour – their first trip was to link their home towns in Spain and Austria together. I got a tip of a good campsite to stay at the next again evening.
The only time I strayed off the route no 2 that day and take the Komoot route I regretted it – I was so close to the lake I was heading for I could almost touch it but the path just disappeared into a wall of cane and I had to turn round.
Finally made it to Camping Mario – and Mario made me think of a little scruffy Super Mario. The campsite facilities were a bit scruffy too but it was a lovely spot, everything worked and I got a delicious wee jug of red wine for €3 before heading to bed.
Next day I was heading for another lake and the campsite that had been recommended to me. Another good day on the bike but not as scenic and the road was busier – cycling along the west side of the lake was lovely though except for the 20° incline!
I did come through this lovely wee town though – the walking route goes through it – the cycling route skirts passed it and it becomes apparent why at the other end of the town where I had to zigzag down all the steps – if I wasn’t fully laden I think I would have had a go at cycling down them.
For the 2nd day in a row my end point was at a lake – Lago di Bracciano – and for the 2nd day on the trot I thought I was going to have to retreat and make a u-turn – the path narrowed to almost nothing and sloped down to a narrow but muddy burn – had to push Phil up the steep slope on the other side and then on to a steeper is-this-even-the-route section that I only just made up without having to take the panniers, etc off and found myself on the edge of an olive grove with no indication which way to go – finally joined a wee road to the chorus of barking dogs at their house – and then it was an uphill before a nice swoopy downhill to the lake and reccomended campsite……. which was closed! And so was the next one. It’s getting to the end of the holiday season – in my head it’s warm enough to camp you should be open but don’t suppose it works like that.
3rd campsite lucky at International Glamping – lovely location but wanted €34 for one night – my expression must have said it all when she asked if that was alright – eh no – I’d want of your pods at that price – I managed to talk them down or I would have found a wee wild camping spot.
Sunset across Lago di Bracciano
And this sign made me giggle the next morning
Sounds like Swans & Humans have a similar problem!
The last 2 day’s cycling in Tuscany has been beautiful. Very little traffic accept round Siena where I camped last night. Only one nutty driver in a campervan with blacked out windows who seemed to have somewhere to get to urgently yesterday. Certain areas of Italy there have been sections that haven’t been pleasant to cycle on – other road users just not giving enough space – today and yesterday I feel as if I’m in a completely different country and really enjoying it. Having said that though it’s not all been easy – it is hot hot hot – earlier today it was 30° and hilly! Passing lots of towns and villages with place names beginning with “Monte” – not surprisingly this means mountain – really not mountainous at all but lots of little hills.
Views of San Miniato
Yesterday morning I left San Miniato, stopped at San Gimignano and then onto Siena where I had a wander round this morning. This afternoon I had a wee wander through the smaller town of Asciano – all hill fort towns. San Gimignano has huge towers and the black and white marble cathedral in Siena is stunning.
San Gimignano
Knowing it was going to be hot again today I hadn’t intended stopping at Siena – my plan was get some miles in before it got too hot but instead found myself cycling at the hotest part of the day.
Siena
Away from the towns lots of trees (including the tall slim distinct shaped cypress trees) and lots of vineyards but the further south I go the less trees there are and everything is looking dryer.
Cypress Trees & Vineyards
Cycling south from Lucca to San Miniato saw lots of walkers doing the Via Francigena and got speaking to some of them including 3 ladies from Australia – they were struggling with the heat – I thought if they are struggling there’s no help for me, forgetting that not all of Australia is toasty hot. The section from Lucca to Rome is one of the busiest sections of the pilgrimage and I should have thought of this when I was trying to get accommodation in San Miniato – no campsite near by, the hostel was full and so was the convent where the hostel said I should try. There is a website for convents that you can stay in and they are advertised as quiet peaceful places to stay which seems really appealing but as someone who doesn’t go to church I feel guilty about staying there and don’t feel that I should – on the other hand they are trying to make money like anyone else so maybe I should be brave and stay in one some time – as it happens I managed to get a room in a wee hotel.
The campsite in Sienna had a section for cyclists and backpackers and there were a lot of cyclists last night – a big Polish group arrived as it was getting dark. There wasn’t a lot of conversation though – I think everyone was too gubbed with the heat. I made use of the campsite restaurant and had a plate of “french fries” for my dinner which turned out to be really tasty chunky chips. The downside of the restaurant was it was really close to the cyclists bit of the campsite, open until 11pm and noisy (and maybe I’m just becoming a party pooper).
Going backwards after Dad left Lucca for home I stayed an extra night in Lucca and cycled to Pisa and back – I’ve seen the Leaning Tower before but never been up it and was keen to do that. It was very busy but loved it. It feels very odd going up the tower – spiral staircase but with a distinct slant and it does make you feel off kilter.
Not a very flattering picture of me holding the Leaning Tower of Pisa up
More pictures of Pisa
I’ll try and upload some pictures of Lucca and mine and Phil’s brief visit to the sea but right now heading to bed – going to try and set off early and beat tomorrow’s heat.
Cycling east from Aosta to St Vincent on the Dora Baltea River cycle route, except where I missed the signs or the signs disappeared – nice easy cycling, apart from one wee gravelly uphill. Where I missed my turn I could have gone back a short way and then continued on the correct route; gone through a busy tunnel that I didn’t fancy or go on the old road that skirted right of the tunnel and this seemed to best alternative except that it was closed for maintenance – closed but the metal barrier was open so I decided to take my chances – the road was a bit pot holed but in terms of work going on when I went past there wasn’t too much going on and no heavy machinary and by pure chance when I got to the other end of the works a workman was opening the barrier so that he could drive in and I just cycled past – if anyone was bothered by me cycling through they never said.
At St Vincent the river takes a right turn and both my route and the river heads south south east towards Ivrea – a bit more undulating and scenery more interesting as we travel through a steep sided valley – on nearly every raised area there seems to be a tower or small fort or cross to mark it.
Bard with it’s fortress looked particularly interesting.
At Ivrea I stopped to watch the Kayak Slalom and had a quick wander around the town.
Conscious of time though and trying to cover as much distance on the mostly flat terrain I carried on to Camping Del Sole on Lake Viverone where I was going to spend the night.
As usual the last bit seemed to take longer and the sun was starting to dip and I was getting tired – the map indicated the campsite wasn’t far away but I stopped a man and his son who were cycling the other way to confirm that I was going the right way – I think I mumbled a mix of French and English with an attempt of an Italian accent “is the campsite nearby” – turned out that “Struan” and his Dad were from Scotland but had been living in the area for about 18 months but didn’t know where the campsite was.
Campsite wasn’t far away at all though and I got shown the area for tents or alternatively camping under the long carport as it may rain overnight – one other cyclist already had his tent pitched there and seemed confident we were in for a downpour so I opted to do the same.
Nice campsite with a wee bar and I enjoyed a wee white wine before going to bed – still dry at this point but at some point after 11pm the heavens opened and thunder and lightening storm overhead. The carport seemed to be doing the job initially but at some point the rain started coming through and landing on the tent.
Up early the next morning as keen to get more miles under my belt. Tent all good on the inside but very wet on the outside – my fellow cyclist’s tent seemed to be bone dry though – what did he know that I didn’t or did he just get lucky?
Lago di Viverone
Good first 22 miles or so – rain had come on but still pleasant for cycling in. Quiet roads initially and busier towns but there were cycle paths – nothing like the infrastructure in France and Belgium though. In the town of Vercelli on a shared pavement was where I got my first puncture – hopefully last but don’t want to tempt fate – it was starting to get busy with pedestrians and having a shared pavement wasn’t ideal for either cyclists or pedestrians and I was about to use the road when my rear end (of the bike) went all sluggish – puncture – and this coincided with the rain getting much heavier. I pushed Phil to the end of the road where there was kind of a square, took everything off the bike; up ended Phil; rear wheel came off relatively easily – I hate taking the rear wheel on and off; tyre off and found the cause of the puncture pretty quickly; pressed the inside of the tyre against the metal electrical box that I was next to so that I could push the sharp object back to the outside of the tyre and remove it – again surprised at how easy I got it out and it turned out to be a bit of glass; inflated the inner tube to patch the hole but it was deflating so quickly I couldn’t locate the hole and it was now pouring with rain so went for the easier option of using a new inner tube; at some point during this realised that I’d cut my thumb on the glass and there was blood on me, the inner tube, pavement, etc and I’m now trying to put everything back together with my thumb wrapped in a sweaty-snotty-when did I last wash it hanky – this combined with rain water and a manky tyre all probably a good case for an infection but writing this a good few days later all seems good except for a sizable scar on my thumb – yes I should have used tweezers to remove the glass from the tyre but went for the quicker option. Inner tube and tyre back on but then I have a fight getting the wheel back into place – I’ve done this a number of times over the years and been shown what to do countless times and I still struggle with it – occasionally I get it to slot in nice and easy but this time make a complete pigs breakfast of it and somehow I’ve managed to jam the wheel half in half out and I can’t budge it! Transpires that there is a bike shop only a couple of minutes away but seems like ages away when I firstly carry my panniers and tent and leave them at the shop and then go back for an abandoned upside down Phil. Carrying the bike isn’t easy but a nice fellow stops to help, thinking it’s just the chain that’s slipped – his hands are now covered in my bike oil but luckily doesn’t seem to have got any on his nice white sweat shirt – he translates to the bike shop what the problem is, makes use of the shop’s sink to wash his hands and goes on his way. It doesn’t take long to get bike fixed but I really must get better at doing this myself as there is not always going to be someone nearby to help me – need to get booked onto a bike maintenance course when I get home!
While waiting for my bicycle to be fixed I got speaking to another customer who suggested going to Lucca via Genoa – I’d already considered this and it ticked a lot of boxes – shorter route (but only about 18 miles); I would see more of the coast and Genoa has the tallest lighthouse on the Mediterranean – HOWEVER – there would be significantly more uphill which would take me much longer (and also the lighthouse wouldn’t be open) so I decided to stick to my plan of continuing east before heading south to the coast.
By the time I left the bicycle shop the rain had stopped and it stayed dry for the rest of the time. I continued through the town and spotted my my white sweatered helper from earlier and he spotted me – turns out his name was Angelo, which translates to “angel”. We chatted for a while and everything I said he told me how to say the key words in Italian – it was a shame I couldn’t spend longer with him as he was so friendly and helpful and I know I would have picked up more of the language.
It was a beautiful afternoon and evening and the terrain was easy going so pushed on still trying to cover as much ground as possible. Later on though I was cycling towards ominously threatening clouds – this combined with the next campsite being quite a distance away I booked myself into a wee hotel – I feel as if turned into a lightweight but it was a definitely a good move – it was at the end of the road, just outside the town of Calendasco, on the Po river. After not getting much sleep in the tent with the thunder and lightening and the noisy hotel the night before that this hotel was perfect – no noise at all and I got a much need good night’s sleep – I also missed the rain – judging by the water on the road it had been heavy in places but I missed it all.
The Po area is Italy’s rice growing area – the biggest rice growing area in Europe – unfortunately this also means an increase in biting beasties – I’ve had very little problems with insects until dropping down into Italy but now I’m sure they are all out to get me!
As well as insects I’m seeing different birds and seen a few flocks of what I think are black headed ibis – please tell me if anyone thinks different.
Not a great photo – Black Headed Ibis I think
Going from France to Belgium and then Belgium to Luxembourg and back to France and then France to Switzerland there were definite differences in terms of architecture and scenery but this was more gradual, whereas going to Italy it was a much more obvious change and probably because there was a much more obvious boundary and this is particularly noticeable with the cars – both in types of cars and the driving styles. France and Belgium had a similar mix of vehicles to back home in terms of make and types of cars – Luxembourg and Switzerland everything seemed bigger and flashier and I don’t think I ever saw an unclean or dented or scratched car – in Italy there is everything from the wee 3 wheeled APE vans and lots of really old Fiat Pandas (in various states of repair) to flash Porches and everything in between and there is a lot of bashed and scratched cars about.
Dad eyeing up an APE van
Up the next morning breakfast was included – I haven’t been eating a lot – not sure why but not been very hungry – but thought that getting some proten in me would be a good and assumed it would be a European breakfast with cold meat and cheese and if I’m lucky boiled eggs – however lots of sweet stuff was on offer and I started off the day with a croissant and Nutella and a generous slice of lemon pie – don’t know if this is typical of an Italian breakfast?? And it was back on the road again – 2 more sleeps and 2 and a bit more days cycling until I make it to Lucca.
