Thursday 8th June. Two and a tiny bit days of cycling took me from the campsite at Cavica to the Bicaz Gorge and Lacul Rosu (Red Lake) – approx 113 miles away. Looking forward to seeing the gorge but other than knowing that I was cycling alongside a big lake at some point I didn’t know what I would see in between time – what I got was fantastic cycling in amazing scenery on mostly very quiet roads.

Reading other information online and what some people had told me in person had made me a little apprehensive about cycling in the north of Ronania – and now thinking that my blog and all my moaning about dogs will have the same effect and I apologise for this – I would definitely reccomend coming and visiting all the places I have been to so far – whether that is by car, campervan, motorbike or bicycle – preferably bicycle cause it’s the best way to travel – lots of beautiful and varied scenery to see and just the odd church or 2.

Town square in Gura Humorului – doesn’t look it but I promise the town was busy

About 11 miles took me back to the busy town of Gura Humorului and a couple more miles of busy road to a town called Frasin and then a left turn onto the 177A and hardly any traffic at all for the rest of the day. There is a long but nice and steady pull up to the highest point, about 3800ft and of course a nice downhill to follow it. Got soaked at the beginning of the uphill – big dark clouds, a few splats of rain and a couple of big rolls of thunder turned to very heavy rain – I did wonder about sheltering at the shop I’d just bought a juice from but decided to keep going – even if I’d waited for rain to stop, there was so much surface water I was going to get wet anyway so was glad I kept going and there was no lightening – about 1/2 hour later rain stopped. Another left turn onto the 17B road and a few miles later found my wee room for the night in at Pensiunea Bradet in a wee village called Brosteni.

Not sure if this chimney and all the demolished buildings nearby was to do with the old mine that was a little further along
Old Mine
At the top of the pass

The lady who ran the hotel spoke very little English and my Romanian has not improved but she was lovely and showed me where everything was – a wee while later her 14 year old grandson arrived home from school and he spoke brilliant Engish and seemed keen to use it – he told me he had mostly taught himself – and then there is that -ve / that apology that nearly everyone in Europe seems to give for not speaking very good English – he tells me his grammar is not very good – he sounded dam good to me. He was excited to tell me about his recent trip to England. He was impressed by how small by packed up tent was and he told me there was no campsites nearby because of bears – he tells me that they quite often come into the village and try and get into the garbage – one of the motorbikers I’d met about a week ago had seen a bear in the distance but I’ve not seen any yet.

Trying not to spend too much on accommodation – had to spend twice the amount I’ve spent recently on a room but it was a fab wee room
Not all dogs woof at me – she was very cute

Planned to set off early but the rain came on while I was packing up so hung tight and didn’t set off until nearly 8.45. Weather got better and better and so did the views. No big hills but much more undulating than I was expecting.

80 year old wheeling his barrow of wood and chain saw home
Passed lots of wee villages on the way
Loved the kids parked cars
Lots of footbridges linking little villages to the main road – there were bridges for cars as well, but not as often

Continued on the 17B until the road split and I crossed over this fab bridge to the town of Poiana Largului.

Right turn at the end of the bridge took me onto road 15 and alongside Lacu Izvorul Muntelui (also known as Lacul Bicaz) – Romania’s largest man-made lake.

Different sign telling folks not to leave there rubbish behind
Bicaz Dam

A wee bit busier in the town of Bicaz but quieter again on the last stretch for my room for the night at Bicaz-Chei.

Much more basic room with shared bathroom but 1/2 the price of previous night and perfect for what I need – also came with good views, a free mug of homemade wine and a very friendly pussy cat.

Today’s plan was to cycle along the Bicaz Gorge to Lacul Rosu (The Red Lake) and back – only 6 miles each way but with 1825ft climb on the way – I was then going to cycle another 50 miles to nearest campsite – however liked my room and opted to stay an extra night and went for a walk round the lake when I got to the top instead of rushing back down. Cycle to the top was fab and not as hard or as steep as I expected to be but still a toughie and glad there wasn’t too much traffic on the road.

Back at the wee hotel I asked if there was a walk to the wee outcrop with the cross that I could see from the balcony. The husband of the couple who run the hotel offered to show me the way up – it’s not very high up but barely a path – it turns out it was the hotel owner who erected the cross – I don’t think many folks go up to it and I would never have found the way. Glad I asked cause the view was fab.

My room was up the stairs, 2nd door along from top of stairs