Month: June 2023 Page 1 of 3

Thought I might have used up my “wow” moments  for this trip but then I cycled past the Eastern end of The Carpathian Mountains and the views were just stunning.

After a late breakfast – very very delicious late breakfast – we were all heading south to Bucharest – Emma, Matt and Ben by bus – me back on Bertie bike again.

Very steep road out of the old town of Brasov and onto some back roads before joining the main road south – bit busier than I would have liked but worth it for the views.

Now knowing that the rangers put some food out to try and keep the bears in the woods rather than the bears wandering into town to scavenge for something more interesting I thought it was unlikely that I’d get to see any more bears but keeping an eye out all the same but no luck.

As I got to the edge of a town called Busteni I saw posters advertising the castle where “Wednesday” was filmed – combination of the pictures on the posters and somewhere in the depth of my memory I knew there was a connection to “The Adam’s Family”, something I’ve only watched odd bits of but never got into  – I decided to make a wee detour to see Cantacuzino Castle. I paid to go into the grounds only – to go into the castle was guided tour only and in Romanian and as I’d only mastered about 4 words (including prostitute) I decided not to go in. It was still worthwhile going into the grounds as there was some interesting sculptures and more fab views of the mountains.

Not much further away – with a very short but very steep section of pushing Bertie up the last stretch (minus the panniers which I went back for) to Hay Huy Campsite – I’d followed the walking and cycling route – not the car route – when it said cycling it meant for a mountain bike with no additional weight. Campsite was very small but very friendly and more good views of the mountains. This was the first campsite I’d stayed at that had an electric fence to keep the bears out and a shed to keep our food in overnight. Next morning I took the “car” route to rejoin the main road – this was longer and less steep but still would have been hard work if I’d gone up this way yesterday.

Next day I was heading for Ploiesti where I had a room for the night booked. First a wee detour and final real uphill in Romania, to visit Peles Castle, near the town of Sinaia. The castle was built for King Carol I of Romania “because he fell in love with the mountain scenery ” – still in The Carpathian Mountains it wasn’t difficult to see why he liked it. I was only able to visit the 1st floor – it is closed altogether on Monday’s, 1st floor is open on Tuesday’s and then it is fully open the rest of the week – I went on a Tuesday. Looking at some of the pictures of the upper floors there are some brighter rooms but oh my word downstairs was dark and not very welcoming but at the same time stunning. The castle is famous for, amongst other things, its oak carving – and without a doubt they are stunning but very dark – even the library was dark, which didn’t seem to make it very conducive to reading, but again it was still beautiful.

The weapons collection was beautiful – not normally 2 words you put together but the detail and carvings and jewels on some of the weapons was stunning.

The “”Florentine” room was still dark but was fairly brightened up by the 2 Murano Glass chandeliers – not sure that the wood and chandeliers complimented each other but that’s just my opinion.

Next it was off to find my bed for the night. From Brasov to Bucharest I’d asked for advice on which route to take (which included Peles Castle) as I knew it was going to get busier the closer I got to Bucharest – however they all said there wasn’t much option but to stick to the DN1 road – however managed to link up quite a few villages and missed most of the busy roads until quite close to Ploiesti. Got a fabby wee single room with its own shower – it was cheap and in the right area but no reviews which made me wonder if I’d made the right choice but it was perfect and in a nice quiet area – transpired though that they weren’t actually ready for business – booking.com was not meant to have put it on their website for another few days and you could see that they were still in the process of decorating the other rooms – luckily my one was ready and they now have one review.

Back in Brasov Emma, Matt and Ben treated me to a trip to a bear hide. We only saw one bear but we were able to watch him for quite a while before he disappeared into the woods again.

Had a fantastic few days in the wee village of Zalanpatac, with Emma, Ben and Matt. Nice walks, very peaceful, beautiful scenery and lots of wild flowers. We soaked our feet in the mineral water pool, we cautiously entered the small “mofetta”, and visited the very small museum. No light pollution and a fantastic view of the stars. We didn’t see any bears but pretty certain we heard one the first evening and definitely saw bear prints the following morning. We did see a little snake. Thank you Emma for introducing me to this lovely wee village.

The mofetta we went in, is tiny compared with the ones in this description – just a couple of steps down and 4 or 5 up turned logs to sit on. We were told not to go in for more than 3 minutes. https://visitharghita.com/en/places/the-miracle-of-mofettas-a-unique-phenomenon-in-the-world-cp3-6lhw6clljw#

Wednesday 21st June. Very glad I’d taken the afternoon off and saved the rest of the uphill for slightly fresher legs. Toasty when I left the campsite but cooler in the shade of the trees as I went up. According to the sign posts hairpins were at 7% – absolutely perfect for me – enough to push me but not kill me altogether and definitely no having to get off to push Bertie. I’m in bear country and although I’d love to see one not sure I want to come across one when I’m slowly going uphill. This is pretty much the route I did – zoom in to see the hairpins. https://www.komoot.com/tour/1180050202?ref=aso&share_token=aPUlwlQ6hdskDJy7h1Gkvqlrst0gXkeuXwgke71xIxSyguxe1j

At the top there is a police presence and some lorries have been pulled over. I’m looking for somewhere I can get off the bike and I’m approached by a policeman and wonder what he wants but he’s just come to point out a picnic table that is hidden from view behind a truck and tells me to take my time before heading down the other side.

Some lovely swoopy sections going down. Some tough wee uphills too  – barely an incline but into the wind. The blue of Lacul Tarlung lower down was amazing.

Two days ago when I was struggling in the hills I saw some beautiful houses – someone of which are probably holiday homes – I’ve been told that Romania has a similar problem to the UK and I’m sure it happens right across the world – with incomers buying holiday home and pushing the prices up for everyone else. Here I saw the poorest house I’d seen so far – nothing more than a run down shack with some chickens scratching in the mud outside – it was more in keeping with pictures I’d seen of shanty towns in India. Today on the edge of another town, only a few miles from Brasov, another very poor area and I had to remind myself I was still in Europe

The last few miles into Brasov was hectic – some good sections of cycle path as you got closer to the old town but before this there was a stretch where I had to unload and reload Bertie because of steps – there was a concrete ramp but it was so steep I didn’t use it. Finally at hostel – Bertie has been abandoned at the reception for a few days – I’m scrubbed up and got my clothes washed and time to relax for a few days with my sister, b-in-law and nephew for a few days.

Tuesday 20th June.   The last 4 days I’ve been traveling inland towards Brasov. Had thought about getting there today and currently only about 32 miles away but at about 11.50 this morning found a nice restaurant and there was a campsite just a few hundred meters along the road and decided to call it quits for today.

I’m in a wee town called Cheia, in the Ciucas Mountains and it’s beautiful. Tomorrow I’ve got about 10 miles and 2000 feet of climbing to do and then hopefully a nice swoopy downhill 20 miles to Brasov.

Three afternoons ago after a very hot day I asked at the wee shop I’d stopped at if there was any accommodation near by as I couldn’t find anything online. At the end of the village there was rooms – the man there phoned somebody who phoned somebody to confirm there was a spare room – room was basic – no lock on the door, 2 single beds one of which looked as if it had been slept in – communication had been difficult so I didn’t say anything and opted to use the other bed – plenty of hot water in the over the bath shower but no shower curtain and as is often the case nowhere to hang the shower head so you end up having a one handed shower which isn’t easy – the bath rocked with the slightest move I made and it was a very quick shower in case something broke altogether and bath and me went the floor.

Following day was a big day – just short of a 100 miles with a wee rest on the ferry close to the Romanian / Bulgarian border. Nearly all flat and nice easy cycling apart from a few miles of road improvement works – where it was just gravel – wasn’t sure if the gravel was the improvement on what had been there before or if there was more work to be done. In the morning passed miles of vine yards and was very tempted to buy some to try from an old man who was selling it at a stall at the roadside but I had nowhere to put a 2 litre plastic bottle of wine. In the afternoon saw my first sunflowers of this trip. Didn’t pass through many villages and very little traffic which was good, but this was the most isolated I’d felt on the whole of my journey and was glad nothing went wrong with the bike. Not long after being back on tarmac a beastie shot into my left eye – should have had my sunglasses on – it wasn’t just uncomfortable, it stung like anything and I couldn’t see anything for a good few minutes – really needed an eye bath but the only liquid I had was 1/2 grapefruit juice / 1/2 water and that wasn’t going to help – can’t be sure but wondered if it was an ant and it had squirted some acid. Eye settled down, although still very uncomfortable, and wheels turning again and onto a motel for the night – there wasn’t much choice and this was part of the reason for the big day – bed was comfortable and shower was good but it was a toasty hot day and there was underfloor heating in the room and it was roasting – opening the window didn’t help with the heat much and I could smell the bins which were below my window – my least favourite place to stay of the whole trip.

Overcast the next morning with a bit of a breeze and I was glad it was cooler. This was meant to be a much shorter day – flatish for most of it and into the hills later in the day. I had some phonecalls to make so had a few stops and also had an extended lunch – just generally chilled because I thought I had plenty of time! Again not a lot of choice of accomodation but found a campsite on booking com – it was going to be basic but that was fine – water but no electric, peaceful and good views – sounded perfect so started into the hills for “OffCamping” at a wee village called Bobicesti. One of my earlier phonecalls was to Karen back home – rather than cycling all the way home I’ve decided to fly from Bucharest to England and although I could book my flight on my phone I could not get the sports baggage options to come up so I’d phoned Karen so that she could do this for me – but the Wizzair website crashed at the time so we gave up until later. Only 6 miles from the campsite (or so I thought) I found myself pushing Bertie up a very steep hill  – which coincided with a huge roll of thunder and the heavens opening – which coincided with Karen phoning – now trying to hold up Bertie Bike up as there was nothing to lean the bike against and hold the phone to my ear I tell Karen I’ll phone her back – but Karen had my flight all sorted and just needed my bank details and I didn’t want to miss the chance of booking it – I’m now shouting out my bank details over the noise of the rain – my phone then pings with a message from the bank requesting my fingerprint so that it can confirm payment but by now as well as trying to hold bike up and hold phone to my ear I am absolutely soaked and because I’m wet and phone is wet it won’t recognise my finger print and much cursing and swearing ensues. Phonecall aborted I get to the top of this steep section and prop Bertie up against a cemetery wall – rain has stopped as quickly as it’s come on and the sun is blazing – dig my towel out and dry off phone and luckily there has not been too much of a time delay and I’m able to complete the booking for my flight and big thank you to Karen for doing all the work in the background – just don’t time it to coincide with a thunderstorm next time – lol. Onwards and upwards – the views were amazing but it was brutal – the most pushing I’ve done the hole trip – I finally get to top of a hill – wave hello to a man with a few cows and drop down the other side a short distance when the tarmac stops and its onto steep downhill dirt track – this was serious 4-wheel drive terrain – not heavily loaded 2-wheel Bertie bike terrain and I retreat. Back down to the man with the cows – not sure I’m pronouncing the village name right and show him the name on my phone and he points me back down the hill I’ve just struggled up. Back in the next wee village on my 3rd attempt a friendly couple call their daughter from the back garden – she does what I should have done in the first place and uses the link to the location on the booking.com website – coping the address into Google maps took you a short distance away as the crow flies but a long way round when it involves going down the hill you have just pushed up and then up another long hill but just not quite so steep – I don’t think I could have sweated mote if I’d tried and didn’t have the tent up until 8pm – not sure I want to cycle this stretch again but the scenery was beautiful.

Generally weary today. Something in my left arm “pinged” about a week ago when I took my rucksack off – it’s not been overly troublesome but was a but achy today – don’t think pushing Bertie uphill helped. My right leg wasn’t too happy either – maybe because of the bad cramp I got in it the previous night. Back downhill to join the main road and then mostly gentle up but into the wind made it hard going. The scenery in Romania has been amazing but this is the best so far. Glad I stopped early and enjoyed a wander through the town, taking in the views and watching the cows who were wandering through the town too.