So I’ve been a bit on edge about dogs in Romania – lots of people saying that they are a problem – and various suggestions of what you should do – carrying pepper spray and / or a stick seems to be a common suggestion – I’m not convinced that I can either wield a stick and / or operate a can of pepper spray while cycling and stopping to do one or the other doesn’t seem to be a good idea either! Also not sure I want to do either anyway.

Don’t want to tempt fate but the only time I’ve been bitten by a dog was on the canal tow path between Falkirk and Edinburgh – and I blame the dog’s owner for that.

The further east I’ve come the more barking I’ve heard but luckily the dogs are usually behind fences.

At night time it often sounds like the scene from 101 dalmations when they put the call out to find the puppies – one dog starts and it seems to carry on with more and more dogs joining in – not sure if they are sending good or bad messages though.

The previous 2 days in Romania I’ve passed fields of cows and sheep – some fenced and some not – more nervous where there is no fence as I’m expecting a dog to be protecting his herd or flock but so far there has been a shepherd in the field, hunkered down, with a wide brimmed hat, I presume trying to keep out of the sun as much as possible – a dog or 2 beside him – neither dog nor man seem to notice me going by.

Later on yesterday passed a few dogs sleeping next to the road – looking up as I got closer – but didn’t seem interested in me – too much effort in the heat I suspect.

At the campsite last night a dog appears and follows me at a slight distance – I think he or she is just as apprehensive of me.

Overall a good night’s sleep but I’m woken by barking that seems to echo round the hills but I fall back asleep.

Later I hear barking much closer to my tent – ridiculous thoughts going through my head but all goes quiet and I fall asleep again.

Later there is definitely a wee skirmish outside the tent – nothing much – not a lot of noise – and then I recognise the legs of the dog who I’d seen last night go past the tiny wee window of my tent – had he or she been protecting me??

When I get up this morning there is a dog barking close by but no sign of the one I saw last night.

Returned on the 7 miles back to the main road – more uphill to the campsite than I’d realised yesterday as I had lovely barely pedaling section to start the day, to rejoin the main road

A wee detour to see the local traditional pottery being made – they knew who I was because Marian had phoned them yesterday – lovely couple and I now have a lovely ceramic choir boy angel / bell in my pannier and don’t know if it’s less likely to be broken if I keep it with me or post it home.

After yesterday’s tired legs not sure how today’s uphills will go but perfect sized hill with nice switch backs – enough to get my legs moving but not too hard – also as soon as I left the town of Negresti-oas there is much less traffic too.

Stopped at this church on the way – again loving the silver catching the light but not sure it was picked up in the photos – there was a service taking place so I didn’t go any closer.

The main goal for today – well early afternoon – arrived at campsite just after lunch, tent up and then went to see The Cimitirul Vesel – The Merry (or cheerful) Cemetery – have a look at the link as it will explain it much better than me – loved it – unfortunately to get the best colours of the church didn’t get the best views of the church – it’s worth reading the translation of some of the epitaphs. Thank you Marius for suggesting this to me.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merry_Cemetery

Good wee campsite – pitch for the night, main course and pudding and a little too much red wine for the equivalent of £19. But owe my word the lady that ran it was fierce – possibly partly due to language barriers – felt sorry for the Polish couple when they didn’t understand did they want the bill and she barked at them “You Pay Now!”