I was told Budapest is very nice – but arrived yesterday in the wet and concentrated on navigating my way to the hostel so didn’t see much of it. Made good use of the nearby laundrey and got my clothes washed and dried, including my trainers – in hindsight I should have washed the clean clothes as well – everything I have smells of the ripening (some may say festering) camembert I have been eating for the last 5+ days – despite it being trippled bagged the smell still carries – camambert all finished now though.

Budapest in the rain yesterday

So I’ve crossed the Danube 3 times – from Slovakia into Hungary, then back to Slovakia and once more back into Hungary – one bridge and 2 ferries.

Slovakia was lovely but didn’t have the same wow feeling that I’ve had in other countries I’ve visited so far – maybe because of the route I took and doing it too quickly – I’ve only really seen a very small area of the country. There does not seem to be as many marked cycle routes as in Germany and Czechia and when they are there the signage isn’t as good – having said that though, the area where I met Vlado the route was fantastic. The morning after Bertie was all fixed I started on a good paved cycle path, this changed to very loose gravel and then grass – the grass was much easier going than the gravel until the grass got thicker and the trail started disappearing. I don’t expect all the cycle routes to be paved – it costs money to do this and why would you pave an area that is used less frequently – also a good trail through woodland, for example, you wouldn’t want paved – but this particular route got frustrating and I started using the nearby roads instead. I did though see lots of wildlife – lots of hares, a few deer, one lizard, one stork, 2 green woodpeckers and what I’m pretty sure was 3 kingfishers – seemed to be right shape, colours and size but definitely not as elusive as our kingfishers back at home. Think i need to come back to Slovakia and spend longer – maybe go hiking in the mountains some time.

The River Vah merged in with the Danube at a town called Komarno – this was kind of a key bit about my journey, being on Eurovelo 6 / Danube trail but other than fleeting glimpses, because of trees, I never really saw the river for a good while – trees are nice but I wanted to see the Danube. What didn’t disappoint was finally meeting other cycle tourists. I met an American couple from Hawaii and later on a couple from Australia – both couples were going as far as Budapest and then returning their hired bikes. I met a young lad from Cologne – he was treating himself to a holiday between finishing his degree and doing his masters when he gets home and is hoping to cycke to Uzbekistan and I hope he does and then I met Valerio at the the campsite on my first night in Hungary – he is also hoping to continue to Turkey and possibly further on.

I crossed the Danube over a bridge from Sturovo in Slovakia to Esztergom in Hungary – I’d planned to go further but this was an unexpected wow moment which coincided with a handy campsite – tent pitched and had a good wander seeing the sites – great wee town.

Esztergom is only about 60km from Budapest – yesterday morning still undecided whether to go via Budapest or wait until I was on route back home but forecast not good and plenty of hostels to stay in if need be and also now wondering what if I don’t return via Budapest?? Decision made – hostel in Budapest booked and off I set – route zipped and zapped across the Danube a couple of times – first ferry I was meant to catch turned out not to be running – unfortunately nothing to tell you that until I’d cycled to the road end – lovely lady in car who was also to catch ferry advised me there was another ferry crossing further along the road – she was lovely and interested in what I was doing – but then when I said I was going to Romania she advised me to get pepper spray – I assumed she meant for the dogs (which I’ve heard can be troublesome) but she said “for some of the people as they are sometimes strange” – I hate it when people say things like this – I know she was thinking of me but it makes me feel nervous and most people are good people. When I did get to next ferry I just missed it and I had to wait 3/4’s of an hour for next one – debated whether to wait or continue on the shared road on the south bank of the river – decided to wait and had lunch in the rain while I waited. Forecasted rain got heavier and heavier as I approached Budapest and very glad I’d booked into a hostel for next few nights – not sure hostel was pleased to have a dripping me, bags and Bertie Bike in their reception but Bertie wasn’t going to be left on the street overnight.

First ferry across The Danube

Today any forecasted rain didn’t come to more than a few spots and had a good day, and walked lots, taking in the sights of Budapest.

Lots of interesting statues and fountains.

The most thought proving sculpture though and the one I didn’t take a photo of was “The Shoes on The Danube Bank” – I was glad I saw this but found it very upsetting and watching the speed of logs being carried away in the river just added to the affect – I wonder if wars will ever end but I suspect, unfortunately, not. If you are not aware of the sculpture this link will tell you about it – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoes_on_the_Danube_Bank

Other sights in Budapest

Think I’m going retrieve Bertie from hostel basement tomorrow and continue on our way.